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Safely Scooping Fireplace Ash

It may surprise you that efficient fireplace use is not just about the fuel you use or heating system upgrades, though these are certainly important. But even what you do with that seemingly insignificant residue – the wood ash in your firebox – plays a part in using your fireplace for all its worth.

No matter the species of firewood you burn, your logs will leave behind ash, and too much ash in your firebox can hinder the goal of a hot, clear fire by restricting airflow to your logs. Which means regular removal is a must.

But before you reach for your shovel to empty out your firebox, keep these guidelines in line to get things done safely.

Leaving a Bit Behind – Yay or Nay?

Leaving some ash and embers at the bottom of your fireplace can assist with building future fires. Embers can remain hot for days and be used as an ignition source the next time you want to set logs ablaze, and the ash serves as a warm bed to keep them going.

a close up view of wood burning over hot coals and ashWood ash also insulates your firebox. This is advantageous when starting fires because it means that your fire won’t need to expend so much energy heating the surrounding brick before it can really take off and give you that hot, crackling fire you’re after.

There are some exceptions, though. If the level of ash in your fireplace becomes excessive, stands in the way of building a fire, or if your fires seem choked, it’s definitely time to clear out some ash.

Just remember to keep that happy medium. You don’t want too much ash accumulation, but you also don’t want to leave your fireplace bare (at least not until the end of the heating season). We suggest keeping about a one-inch layer of ash in to really boost those future fires.

Strategies for Safer Scooping

You may have guessed by now that scooping small amounts of ash more frequently is better than doing a few massive clean-outs a season. What’s critical to remember, though, is that live embers may be present in your ashes. These can stay hot enough to start a new fire for days, despite looking deceptively cool.

Because of this, practicing caution any time you’re working with or cleaning up after a fire is imperative. We’ve got some tips:

✓ Wait at least 24 – 72 hours after your last fire. This is the best way to ensure ashes are cool and makes the removal process safer all around.

✓ Use a sturdy metal fire shovel to remove ashes. Then, dispose of them in a non-combustible container, such as a metal bin, with a tightly fitting lid. This reduces the likelihood of oxygen reaching hot embers and reigniting them.

✓ Stay aware and alert. Be alert to the possibility that you may uncover live embers as you move ashes. And if you do uncover some, move these carefully to the back of your firebox rather than putting them in your metal container.

✓ Store the container outside. Once you’ve scooped ash to a desirable level (about an inch), remove the fireproof container from your home and store it away from any structure. Even if the ashes appear cool, any live embers can retain heat for days and rekindle if they’re near something flammable. 

Uses for Your Fireplace Ash

Not only can ash be used to insulate your firebox during the heating season, but once scooped and cooled, it has numerous uses in the home and garden, as well. Once cooled, keep these ideas in mind for putting your ash to good use.

  • a metal bucket with a pile of fireplace ash insideTraction on Ice: One immediate use is to provide traction in slippery winter conditions. Sprinkle ash on sidewalks and driveways to help keep your footing, or keep a small bag in the trunk in case it’s needed when you’re out and about.
  • Smothering Flames: Keeping a bucket of ash near your fire pit gives you a means to put out wayward sparks or embers close at hand. Like sand, ash can smother small fires.
  • Garden Growth: Mix wood ash with your compost to boost potassium and neutralize acidity. Your plants will thank you in the spring!
  • Soil Boost: Ash can also be used as a soil amendment, depending on your soil’s pH levels. Like lime, wood ash has a substantial calcium carbonate content.
  • Odor Neutralizer: Like baking soda, ash draws moisture and odors from the air. A small, open dish of it in a musty room or in your refrigerator will freshen air. It can also freshen up the fur of a pet who’s had an unfortunate skunk encounter!
  • Pest Deterrent: In the garden, ash can deter snails and slugs, which have a high water content in their bodies. They’ll be hesitant to cross a line of ash, so use it to circle those tempting veggies.
  • Cleaning: Surprisingly, ash has many applications in cleaning. It can help absorb an oil stain on your driveway, and since it’s a mild abrasive it can polish silver or remove soot from your glass fire doors when mixed with water to make a paste. If you’re crafty, you can even use it as a component in homemade soap!

Call Us in for Fireplace Maintenance

We know you want to use your fireplace for all it’s worth. Part of that includes the day-to-day maintenance of keeping those homey fires burning hot and steady. But expert maintenance at least annually will also keep your system in prime working order and can save you from experiencing advanced deterioration.

If it’s time for a routine chimney sweep, inspection, or maintenance, be sure to reach out to get on our schedule! Call 845-375-3640 or request an appointment online today.

What Is Safe to Burn in a Fireplace?

Dreaming of enjoying a white Christmas as you sit by a hot, cozy fire in the fireplace? Then, we’re guessing your holiday fantasies probably don’t include a smoky, weak, or noxious fire that will drive you out into that winter wonderland. This is why knowing what to burn – and just as importantly, what not to burn – in your fireplace is crucial.

What to Burn: Seasoned Firewood

a dark log immersed in flamesThe most important thing to keep in mind when selecting firewood is that suitable water content is key. Almost every living thing contains water, and that includes the tree your firewood was cut from. Much of this moisture must be gone before the wood will burn well. 

Wood that is wet or green (newly chopped) won’t produce nice, hot fires. But the problem isn’t merely that the fire will be less warm and cozy to sit beside. The real problem is that a cooler fire will produce more smoke, more creosote, and cooler flue gases – all undesirable effects.

The solution to this problem? Well-seasoned firewood.

How Do I Know if Wood Is Seasoned?

To say that firewood is “seasoned” is to say it’s been thoroughly dried and is ready to burn. This translates to a moisture content of between 15-25%. This can be measured using a moisture meter, but using your senses can also serve you well:

  • How does it look? Firewood should appear aged. The ends should look darker than if it were newly cut, the wood a paler beige color, and the sides should be noticeably cracked and split.
  • How does it sound? Unseasoned wood will make a dull sound when struck against another piece, whereas seasoned wood will produce a comparatively hollow sound.
  • How does it feel? Newly cut or damp wood is much heavier than seasoned firewood. If your firewood feels relatively lightweight, sounds hollow, and appears ready to use, you’re probably in good shape!

Are Hardwoods Better to Burn Than Softwoods?

It depends on what you’re looking for. Softwoods are less expensive, and they’re easier to get going in a fire because they’re less dense than hardwoods. However, this lower density also means that they generate less heat than an equivalent volume of hardwood would. Softwoods also have more sap than hardwoods, which can make them messier to handle and store. Examples of softwoods are cedar, fir, pine, spruce, poplar, redwood, balsam, and adler.

Hardwoods such as maple, walnut, ash, oak, mahogany, and most fruit trees will burn longer and hotter than softwoods once they’re lit.

Either type of wood – hard or soft – is appropriate for use in your fireplace. The question is which is more suitable to the situation. Light spring or autumn chill? Reach for your softwoods – and be prepared to feed your fire a bit more often. Cold winter night? Your denser hardwoods will give you a roaring blaze. You can also combine the two, using your softwoods as kindling year-round.

Note: Be sure to consider the type of wood if you’re paying for firewood, rather than chopping it yourself. Wood is normally sold by volume, not weight. This means that if you buy a cord of hardwood, you’re getting about twice the weight as if it were softwood. Heat production depends on the weight of your firewood, not the volume. Long story short – a cord of softwood won’t give you the same bang for your buck as a cord of hardwood. Either type is fine to use, but you should expect to fairly pay more for hardwood as it will burn longer and hotter. 

What NOT to Burn

The water content of firewood matters more than the type of wood, but it is only firewood that should be burned in your fireplace. There are some wood products that should be entirely avoided when it comes to heating your home. These include:

  • a red and white mug in front of a lit fireplaceengineered woods (such as plywood and particleboard)
  • painted or varnished wood
  • treated lumber
  • driftwood

Other things that shouldn’t be burned include yard waste, such as:

  • leaves and pine needles
  • household waste
  • cardboard
  • plastic
  • styrofoam

This means the aftermath of Christmas with its colored paper, packaging, and spent tree or garlands shouldn’t make its way into your fireplace. Also, while you’d use charcoal in your grill outdoors, it’s very hazardous to use in an indoor fireplace.

Why What You Burn Matters

Why should you be selective about what you burn in your fireplace?

✓ Incomplete combustion, which can be come about by insufficient airflow or improper fuel moisture content resulting in insufficient temperature, means greater production of smoke and creosote and the risk of fumes not being properly vented out of the flue.

✓ Creosote is a dark, highly combustible substance that builds up in chimneys over time but is removed by your chimney professional when you have your chimney swept. Using improper fuels accelerates the build up of creosote, putting you at much greater risk for a chimney or roof fire. Additionally, creosote is unhealthy for humans and animals.

✓ Many fuels not intended for fireplace use – such as the treated woods, waste products, and charcoal mentioned above – contain chemicals that can be released as they burn and are hazardous to respiratory health. Not least among risk factors maximized by improper burning is carbon monoxide, a colorless, odorless gas that can be fatal.

✓ Burning improper fuel can put you at greater risk for uncontained fires. Unpredictable burning may result, or lighter weight particles breaking off while still ignited can escape your fireplace or create a hazard in your chimney.

These are all hazards we work hard to minimize when we offer professional chimney inspections and sweeping by our friendly, qualified technicians. Burning anything but well-seasoned firewood puts your system – and home in general – at unnecessary risk.

Questions for Us?

Questions about how to minimize hazards and feel confident enjoying your fireplace? Remember that we’re at your service. Call us at 845-245-6787 or reach out online today.